Morocco for Beginners: Why You Should Skip Marrakech (For Now)
The colors of Tangier
Here's our unpopular opinion: don't start your Morocco love affair in Marrakech or Fez.
We know. Everyone goes straight to the souks, the riads, the sensory overload. But if you want to actually fall in love with Morocco—rather than survive it—start where the king himself chooses to spend his time: Tangier and Rabat.
These two cities offer something the famous destinations don't: ease. Green spaces. Efficient train travel between them. A gentler introduction to the rhythm, the warmth, the complexity of Moroccan culture. You'll arrive home enchanted instead of exhausted, already planning your return for the intensity of Marrakech.
Rabat: The Elegant Capital
Rabat surprises people. It's polished, walkable, and breathtakingly beautiful without trying too hard.
Don't miss: The Mausoleum of Mohammed V is genuinely stunning—take your time here. The Mohammed VI Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art is world-class and often overlooked by tourists rushing south. Wander the Oudaya Gardens and the small shops tucked into the kasbah walls. For a hidden gem, find Le Ocean 17, a lovely concept store, cafe, and vintage shop that’s worth the detour.
Eat here: Le Dhow serves excellent food on a traditional boat—reserve ahead. Nearbty there's also an incredible fish restaurant overlooking the Atlantic where surfers bob in the waves below (and yes, a surf school nearby if you're feeling brave). Review our Guide to Eating in Rabat for our favorites.
The ritual you need: Find the small puff donuts called sfenj, hot from the fryer in the morning. This is the kind of simple magic that makes travel worth it.
Where to stay:
For classic grandeur: La Tour Hassan Palace—the grande dame of Rabat with gardens and genuine elegance
For boutique charm: Riad Kalaa—intimate, beautifully designed, and deeply Moroccan
Tangier: Mediterranean Energy
Tangier is different. Hilly streets painted in Mediterranean blues and whites. A creative energy that drew Yves Saint Laurent, Paul Bowles, and generations of artists seeking inspiration. It feels like the edge of something.
Don't miss: The Caves of Hercules just outside the city. A day trip to Chefchaouen, the famous blue city, is absolutely worth the drive. In Tangier itself, lose yourself in the medina and the views.
Where to stay:
For legend: El Minzah Hotel—storied, central, with that old-world glamour Tangier does so well
For design-forward luxury: Nord Pinus Tanger—a boutique gem with serious style
What to Buy
Leather goods—Morocco does them beautifully. Local art from the galleries you'll stumble across. Both cities reward the curious shopper without the aggressive haggling you'll encounter in Marrakech.
Traveling Well Over 50
Morocco is very manageable for the 50+ traveler when you approach it right.
Getting around: The train between Tangier and Rabat is excellent—clean, punctual, scenic. Book first class for a few extra dollars and enjoy the comfort. Taxis within cities are inexpensive; agree on a price before you get in.
Pace yourself: Both cities reward walking, but the terrain is uneven—cobblestones, hills, stairs without railings. Good shoes matter more than good outfits. Build rest into your days; long lunches are culturally appropriate and personally restorative.
Health notes: Bottled water only. The food is generally very safe, but ease your stomach into the spices gradually. Pharmacies are well-stocked and pharmacists are knowledgeable.
The Essentials: Customs & Courtesy
Tipping: Small tips are expected and appreciated. Round up at cafés, 10-15% at restaurants if service isn't included. A few dirhams to anyone who helps you—guides, bathroom attendants, someone who gives you directions.
Simple phrases that matter:
Salaam alaikum (peace be upon you)—the universal greeting
Shukran (thank you)
La, shukran (no, thank you)—useful in markets
Bislama (goodbye)
What to wear (for women): Morocco is moderate but Muslim. In Tangier and Rabat, you don't need to cover your hair, but do cover your shoulders and knees. Loose, flowy clothing is both respectful and practical in the heat. Save the shorts and tank tops for your beach resort elsewhere.
General etiquette: Use your right hand for greetings and eating. Ask before photographing people. Accept the mint tea when it's offered—refusing hospitality is the real faux pas.
Pro tip: Visiting Morocco during Ramadan can be challenging due to significantly reduced business hours, daytime closures of cafes and restaurants, limited alcohol availability, and altered social dynamics. Travelers may experience slower service, tense tempers from fasting locals, and the need to avoid eating in public. We suggest a visit outside of this time of year.
This is Morocco at its most welcoming. Master these two cities, fall in love with the people and the pace, and then—only then—are you ready for Marrakech.
